Updating small spaces can be a challenge, but in fact having limitations – whether it’s size, budget, timeframe, material availability etc – actually provides a great starting point and, counter-intuitively, inspires us to think outside the box to get creative.
This article is a slight misnomer because although the renovation part is broken down into the so-called 10 Steps, I am including extra information about:
- the process when you contract trades (or a handywoman) to do the job for you
- lessons, legalities, considerations and challenges
- costs of this particular case study
Full Service(Contractor) Design & Install
Let’s get started!
BRINGING IN A CONTRACTOR
This section supposes using someone to do the job for you, but even if you’re going D-I-Y, the same principles will apply.
1. Brief/Consultation (including budget)
You may think the very first step is to work out who you’ll use for the job, but before that you need to set parameters. This will help your contractor quote on a specific scope of work so you both know what’s involved and what the cost will be for that work.
Your brief may be limited by your budget, your requirements for the space, tailored to your preferences for a certain look and so on. You could consult a designer or builder to help with this process, but for a quick and lower cost renovation, it could be a matter of investigating options and running them past the contractors who come to quote.
The brief I received for this laundry renovation was:
Brighten and clean the area & make best use of all existing available space
It’s a bit vague. We went on to narrow down expectations including:
- The client’s overall budget
- Must-haves versus Nice-to-haves
- Limitations such as whether or not we were moving services (answer, no)
- Colour and material preferences (mostly white)
- Material sourcing - Re-use, Second-hand, and Finishing Quality (re-use what can be, second-hand ok, mainstream quality OK)
Of course, this is also where exact measurements were taken and recorded.
NOTE: Who you ultimately contract could be based on a recommendation, a result of their quote for the job, or something else. See my blog about Successfully Working with Trades for more support with the initial part of the process.
2. Design & Approvals
Based on the information provided, this gave me enough information to go away and come up with some designs, research, and propose the project costs. This is a significant componentof the overall process, and not all contractors will do this for you. A deposit may be expected so the contractor knows you’re not wasting their time, and a contract ought to be in place when money changes hands.
3. Source materials
The next phase will be sourcing materials. Not all contractors will permit you to do this, but make sure it’s crystal clear who is providing what!
This project was both re-using materials (and appliances) from the existing laundry, using some spare materials available from the client, sourcing items through non-retail channels (such as Marketplace), and buying through big name stores.
Sourcing your own materials, using suppliers and/or builders for seconds and surplus, hunting bargains and generally taking your time to get what you need will save tonnes. See my article ‘TheMost Bang! For your $Buck’ for details and more ideas.
The way She Bangs works is slightly different. I offer a ‘Project Partner’ option, as well as the Handy Housemate model, which this project fell under. It meant I received full board as partial payment for the job, and therefore the above three phases were less distinct, and were more ongoing and collaborative than would be typical.
Or, get your copy of The Reno e-Guide here.
THE 10 STEPS
1. Demolition/Removal
As the name says, this is about getting rid of the existing laundry – whether permanently (taking it to the tip, or possibly on-selling), or setting aside for re-use. Probably the most fun part of the whole process! Once removed, it’s a good opportunity to re-measure your space. No doubt you’ll discover you’re not dealing with square walls.
Turn off the water if you’re removing taps, and note that the outlets may still leak a little.
During this step you may come across what I like to call a ‘Reno Surprise!’. Often when you remove stuff you discover the weird & wonderful (and sometimes dodgy) things someone has or hasn’t done before you. Sometimes those things cause massive headaches, and sometimes you’ll simply need a workaround. It’s also possible it’ll create more work (and therefore extra cost) for your contractor. Budget a buffer for it!
Top Tip: Take photos – not only for a Before / After image, but of important things like the plumbing configuration, where the studs are, or other things you’ll need to be reminded of once you start renovating.
2. Repair, Prep & Paint
Prep and paint is just giving you a clean slate to start with. It may be repairing holes in the plaster, having a plumber move your tap outlets or electrician add a powerpoint, or reinforcing the wall to support additional cabinetry. Even if you don’t need a plumber or electrician for rough in, you’re likely to need to disconnect either or both at various times throughout, depending on the work you’ll be doing.
Some people don’t paint at this stage, but personally I prefer to, and I can do touch ups later for anywhere that (inevitably) gets scuffed during renovation.
Top Tip: Paint can be colour matched to adjoining rooms. Just take a decent-sized, flat sample to the paint shop.
3. Install top cabinets/appliances
Whether this really is the third step does depend on your specific design, but one thing is for sure – work from top to bottom. It’s much easier to reach up when you don’t have obstructions below. As for appliances, they often dictate where other components are positioned, and you want to be 100% certain they fit!
NOTE: If you’re changing the flooring, you can do that at this step too (ie: before you start installing lower components).
4. Sort out plumbing
Your sink position is also pretty fixed, and it’s definitely easier to drop in another sink basically where the old one was. If so, you can D-I-Y. If not, hire a plumber and skip to the next step.
After some back and forth, we went with a metal laundry cabinet and stainless steel sink (slightly smaller than the original), but I decided to drop it in through a benchtop that extended the full width of the galley space to keep a consistent height and sleek, modern appearance. Doing so, however, meant the under-sink plumbing would need to be adjusted.
The other adjustment was with the washing machine plumbing – hoses would need to go through the benchtop to the taps, whereas the outlet pipe would run through the side of the tub cabinet and directly plumbed to the S-trap ‘dishwasher’ outlet.
I first did a ‘dry install’ to get the positions right and make sure the plumbing would align, then marked out the exact sink position in the benchtop ready to cut out.
Basic plumbing, such as installing under-sink traps to the waste, isn’t that complicated, but there’s also not much information available to help you learn. (It’s a highly restricted trade in Australia.) The main things are:
- don’t ever go from a larger pipe to a smaller pipe (ie: from 50mm plug hole to 40mm waste – consult a plumber if you have this situation)
- everything must be aligned perfectly in the vertical plane
- joints should be sealed (either PVC cement, or rubber o-rings at compression joints)
- hand tight+ is usually fine – over-tightening will lead to damage to the seals, and therefore leaking
- horizontal pipes need a ‘fall’ so that gravity helps the water flow out to the waste.
Top Tip: It can take a bit of trial and error to work out the set up. Rely on the photos of what was already in place, and then adjust as needed. I recommend buying a heap of different types of fittings to play with (eg: males, females, tail pipe extensions etc in the appropriate size) and then simply return what you don’t end up using!
5. Install shelving/base cabinets
Again, this depends a little on your chosen configuration, but if you’re using a benchtop as I did for this project, the base cabinets provide the support. I actually installed the open shelving later, but it could have been done at this stage.
The metal laundry tub cabinet was installed and fixed to the wall to suit. Due to the tile skirting it couldn’t sit hard up against the wall, so a batten was used to fasten to.
NOTE: You may need to cut into your cabinets before installing them for any cables or vents. Also, be aware you must fasten your cabinets to the wall. Freestanding cabinets are a tipping hazard.
6. Measure, Cut & Install benchtop
Using stone? Clearly that’s a job for the professionals. But timber or laminate are for sure D-I-Y options. Because your walls are almost definitely not square, fitting benchtops (such as this project from one wall to another) is a bit trickier. Precise measurements are essential! You may need to cut on a slight angle, or ‘nibble’ away at a corner. If you’re not confident with the cut out, you can custom order a benchtop cut to size. Again, make sure you have cut outs for sink, cables, hoses, mixer taps and so on.
I used brackets to support 2/3 of the benchtop because the client didn’t have base cabinets. This takes some working out to ensure not too much of the bench is cantilevered (unsupported overhang), and that you’re fixing to the wall studs, not the plaster/cladding!
I also did a ‘dry fit’ of the benchtop several times, and re-marked the sink cut-out before taking the plunge!
7. Install sink/tub & Test
A drop-in sink is the easiest option, but the current trend is for inset (undermount) sinks, or even butler’s sinks. Client’s choice, but you have more ingress issues with undermounts. On this project it was a simple stainless steel sink, secured with clips and sealed with silicone.
Attach your under-sink plumbing, and make sure it’s watertight.
Top Tip: Apart from running flowing water through the pipes to check for leaks, ensure you do a forced water test. This involves filling the tub with water and let it sit a short while. Then pull the plug and observe the pipes under pressure as the water gushes down the waste.
8. Install backsplash
Tiles usually sit 3mm +/- above the benchtop so you’ll usually install them afterwards. This client didn’t want tiles (well, didn't want grout), so I installed wet area panel instead (New York/Subway tile look). That was simply a matter of cutting it to size, gluing it in place with Showerbond, and using the manufactured strips to join and cap the panels.
Tap and faucet cut outs can be ‘scary’ in tile, but with precise measurements, the right tools and blades for cutting tile, patience, and a good dose of caution, you can do it! Be sure to leave clearance around the penetrations, and seal them with silicone.
Top Tip: When tiling a backsplash, work from bottom to top, dry lay first so you know how many full tiles you need. As you affix each row, constantly check you’re staying level. Use adhesive that specifies wall tiles, and make use of spacers (including for the clearance between the bottom row and the benchtop). I prefer the cut tile at the top (so the bottom row is full tile), but it's a matter of eye line.
9. Fitoff – tapware
Whether you’re re-using taps or upgrading for a new look, now is the time to fit them. Again, this is typically a simple D-I-Y task, but follow manufacturer instructions. Usually taps are wall mounted in the laundry rather than benchtop, and usually you’ll have hot and cold, rather than a mixer. You should also have washing machine taps, which are a specific type.
NOTE: If you're changing tap positions or doing anything more complicated than changing the tap part which sits on the OUTSIDE of the wall, hire a plumber.
Be sure to use plumbers’ tape on the thread (apply clockwise). Be careful when you turn the mains water back on, just in case you haven’t fitted them properly. Get help to test!
10. Finishing– silicone/caulk
Nearly done. It’s time to fill any gaps and silicone around your wet areas, including where the tile meets the benchtop or sink edge etc. Check the Digital Resource Library for a How-to guide for silicone/caulking.
Time to add your accessories & appliances. Towel rings, shelves, pegboards, storage stuff; add the little touches that make your laundry a highly functional space that precisely meets your needs.
Finally, connect hoses, and plug in your appliances (don’t forget to restore power if you’ve turned it off!). And you’re good to go.
Remember to take an ‘After’ photo to show off your newly renovated laundry and have a little humble brag about how awesome you are!
CHALLENGES & CONSIDERATIONS, LESSONS & LEGALITIES
- This guide covers cosmetic renovations only. If you’re changing the footprint (either structural changes or moving services), you should not D-I-Y, will definitely need a contract, and may require building permits. Download a copy of The Reno e-Guide here.
- Laundries aren’t considered ‘wet areas’ for the purposes of waterproofing, however you should take care to prevent water ingress at wall penetrations and sink edges.
- It bears repeating that plumbing and electrics are highly regulated trades, and most work is illegal for anyone to do except for a suitably qualified and licensed tradesperson. If in doubt, call a professional.
- You may need to buy tools if you’re going D-I-Y. Be aware this will add a huge amount to your costs. See my blog, The Most Bang! for your $Buck, for advice about saving money.
- I experimented with using an old door as a benchtop, however it was hollow core (ie: rigid paper inside) and ultimately decided it simply couldn’t provide the strength nor the water resistance required. It did however provide a useful template for the dry fit and to cut out the laminated benchtop!
- Tiles can be very heavy. Consider the weight of tiles when deciding on the extent of your splashback area. Also, very thick tiles may affect pipe work – your taps might not seat properly!
- I wasted a lot of time going to Bunnings. :( On this job I failed to do a thorough ‘take off’ and work out everything I would need, in what quantities, in advance. Don’t do this!
- This laundry is in an old house with fibro cement clad walls. On the positive side, it was easy to work out where the studs were because of the fixings at the seams. On the down side, I had no idea where the services were! It’s scary drilling into a wall where you may hit wiring or pipes.
COSTS
The labour for this job was done under a special arrangement, and due to some minor hiccups and other factors, it took about 95 hours including time spent designing, and quite a lot of travel to other towns to buy materials and supplies. Usually such a simple renovation would not take this long.
In terms of cost, labour at my usual rate for 95 hours is almost $6k. My rates are comparably very low, so keep in mind the labour component will either save you loads if you D-I-Y, or cost the lion’s share if you hire contractors.
As mentioned, I sourced second-hand and non-retail materials, as well as buying items from big box manufacturers. So material costs were kept fairly low. Consumables (things like screws and silicone) were also minimal. I had all the tools required.
Materials
2 x top cabinets S/steel laundry sink & waste Laminated Benchtop Laundry tub Brackets Taps Faucet
Washing machine taps Peg board & attachments Wet area panel 2400 x 1200 Wall shelf Towel ring
Hooks x 2 sets S- trap & PVC fittings Pine for battens Grommets Hose clamp Cup hooks
Storage baskets x 3 Broom Dustpan & brush
Consumables
Wall Paint Silicone x 2 (clear & white) Screws Showerbond adhesive Caulk
TOTAL COST (excluding labour): $1300
And that’s it folks! Every reno is different, but hopefully this 10 step process
shows you that it’s definitely doable for you! Good luck. :)
Want more? Download a copy of The Reno e-Guide here.